Right now I’m swigging on a Peroni and waiting for the Green Chili delivered curry to arrive. Tonight is Friday and that means the unmissable Red Lion ale-feast to kick the weekend off.
I am most delighted to announce that Will Bennet and I are running two 1 week Wave Master clinics this year in Cornwall, the first one kicks off June 4th and we’re throwing everything we’ve learned into it!
The tides are extremely low at the moment – just 10cm above the absolute astronomical low tide. This means that waves are breaking in places where people normally don’t surf, and people are walking on sand that is usually underwater.
21 surfs later…and Fistral Beach was cranking!
Things are back to normal today and I got in for a lovely surf (19th in a row!) at low tide Fistral; 3ft and offshore – pretty much classic surfing conditions.
There was all sorts of backwash and bump on the waves at Towan, but the atmosphere was much more light-hearted than the eerie, dangerous feel at Fistral this morning
Here is a video I made today with the GoPro at faithful Towan Beach in Newquay. Amongs the usual close outs there was the odd wave peeling off in front of the Island, the sun was out, you could even feel it, so really there was no better place to be today than down on the beach.
Day seven and the final day of my week long experiment whereby I went in the sea every day to see if I could replicate that surf trip feeling at home. The final surf yesterday occured in the Newquay Bay … Read More
I really enjoyed today’s surf, despite every wave being a close out, for you didn’ t have to work that hard to get them, bar the odd spine bending duck dive under a guillotining lip
Conclusion: a good day’s surf today, would certainly have been worth a decent road trip. The early morning start was a bonus, just three guys out including me, and the locals were so friendly.
The point: To live with ‘surf trip’ focus for a week and see if it is possible to capture that ‘surfed out’ feeling by getting up early and making the most of each day.
I took a midnight stroll around Newquay in October. The beaches were deserted and the streets looked almost sleepy, strange to think that just 6 weeks earlier they would have been swarming with night time revelers