Because of a slight over-indulgence on Saturday evening, I had to claw back a missed day today, so I went for a surf this morning with Milson at Fistral, and then again this evening with Scottish Craig at Towan. The wind had swung from South to West during the day, and the swell more than doubled too, hence choosing a different beach for the arvo session.
Fistral this morning leapt from about 4-5ft to 8-10ft on the ‘proper scale’, which means it went from a bit of a challenge to Biblical in the space of 90 minutes. Every wave resulted in an absolute thrashing and when I finally got caught in the impact zone after a late take-off I had to swim under a couple and let the leash to the dirty work. This is something I don’t like doing unless it’s a last resort as leashes snap and pull free. Still, we made it back in and after a bit of a breather I was back in at Towan with Scottish Craig by 4.45pm.
There was all sorts of backwash and bump on the waves at Towan, but the atmosphere was much more light-hearted than the eerie, dangerous feel at Fistral this morning, and we were taking on the steep close-out drops and getting the odd turn in. Mega-Seal was patrolling the water today, looking quite aggro, we think he was annoyed by a surfer (unwisely) paddling back in through the harbour mouth and getting stuck in the rip for five minutes. Perhaps Mega-Seal thought we were trying to steal his fish?
But back to the original point at the start of this post of ‘having to make up for a lost day’. Project Green Grass is over and in the bag, but now I’m aiming for 21 surfs in 21 days, partly inspired by my good friend Rou Chater over at www.rouchater.co.uk (check out his Project 28) who himself was partly inspired by my Project Green Grass. The rest of the inspiration comes from the swell pumping every day and the winds being good, and with no car or much else to distract me, why not make hay whilst the sun shines?