21 surfs later…

21 surfs later…

posted in: Surf | 1

…and Fistral Beach was cranking! If anything, it was pretty close to being maxed out. A 3.5m swell rolling in from the west at 15 seconds was piling into the beach without interruption and Fistral beach faces west, so was catching the lion’s share of what was on offer today. The wind was south east and about 15knots, a bit more at times.

This one was steep, was lucky to make the drop

Jacko and I paddled out after checking a couple of places down the coast and decided that Fistral looked best. The Cribbar was breaking, Zorba’s reef was breaking and the paddle out was nothing short of totally exhausting, you would be scratching your way out, thinking you were in a handy rip, but you were also being pulled along the beach and into the path of the guillotining closeout sandbar. Once out the back, Jacko had been moved 50 odd meters to the left and me the same distance to the right.

Decided not to jump in here!

With his new 6’10 Matt Adams serious wave board, Jacko wasn’t hanging around and I saw him take a very late frothy one. I clawed into a booming closeout, and not fancying the paddle out again, nipped down to the south end of the beach to jump in off the rocks at the Pentire Headland. I had to try three different potential jump of spots before I found one that looked safe enough.

A big slopey mid tide wall

Once I’d got back out there, the tide had shifted in and things were getting a bit full. At low tide its was a case of taking clobberings in heavy waves but at least you knew you’d get blasted back to the beach. Now, the beach was getting narrower and the rips and rock hazards were intensifying. I decided to get  a safety wave in so paddled over to the middle of the beach and took a ride that started as a left and then reformed into quite a nice right hander.

This one started off as a left...

So that was my 21st surf in 21 days. I’m gonna make a little slideshow of this project, as inspired by a mate of mine, Tony Plant. Before that though, I’ll be hitting the surf a few more times as the week ahead looks good for surfing and maybe kiting too. I don’t want to jinx it, but it may be possible to surf every single day in February!

...and then reformed into a big right hander

One Response

  1. Rou Chater
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    Shredding it Dommo, a top effort to get 21 surfs in, roll on the next few days and good luck with it! Swell forecast looks banging…

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